Removing the mirror box from a Canon A1
As we will be desoldering, start by removing the battery.I first remove the back door by pushing the small release tab in its edge.To remove the rewind crank, hold the film-engaging shaft inside the body and turn the crank…



What are we working on?
- Canon A1
- Production: 1978–1985
- Flickr album: http://bit.ly/canona1miroir
- Removing the mirror box
- Storage boxes are essential for keeping the parts organised at each disassembly stage.
- This is my method, not necessarily the best one. I accept no responsibility if you damage your equipment. If in doubt, entrust it to a professional.












Back door, rewind crank, film-speed dial and shutter-release button
As we will be desoldering, start by removing the battery.
I first remove the back door by pushing the small release tab in its edge.
To remove the rewind crank, hold the film-engaging shaft inside the body and turn the crank anticlockwise. Grip the shaft above the forked end: the prongs are fragile.
Note the film-speed dial settings, then remove the circlip, the dial and the washer underneath. Record the position of the gold-coloured contact inside.
The top of the shutter-release button unscrews. A rubber tool helps avoid marks or scratches. Next come a washer, the plastic selector and a final washer.












Film-advance lever
A lens spanner is useful for removing the top screw. Underneath are a flat washer, a spring washer and a flat plastic washer.
The advance lever comes off next. The washer below it has a pin pointing upwards. Remove the circlip underneath, followed by another washer.
Finally, remove the power selector and then the self-timer selector.










Eyepiece shutter and front dial cover
At the rear, to the left of the eyepiece, remove the rubber cover hiding a screw, then the screw and the control.
At the front left, remove the cover protecting the shutter-speed/aperture selection wheel.
Lifting the cover reveals a screw to remove. Take care: removing the cover exposes a small ball bearing, which should be lifted out gently with small tweezers. Store it safely, then remove the next two screws, the part they retain and the plastic cover.


















Front cover and top cover
Remove the four front screws to release the cover.
Use isopropyl alcohol to soften the adhesive under the small leatherette pieces before slowly lifting them. Work gently to avoid damage.
Before desoldering, I recommend anti-static precautions to protect the circuits. An anti-static mat and grounding connection or anti-static gloves are useful.
After removing the leatherette, undo the six screws around the top cover. Lift it gently: a wire connects the flash-sync socket to the circuit. Desolder it behind the socket with a soldering iron set no hotter than necessary (300°C).






Moving inside
Remove the circlip and the ISO adjustment dial, taking care with the fragile contacts.
Then remove the two screws at the end of the circuit-board plate. They release a small spacer between the plate and the metal body.








Releasing the flexible circuits
Before this step, take many detailed photographs of every connection on the flexible circuit, in case a solder joint is accidentally broken.
Remove the two long black screws from the first block. Move the block aside carefully without disconnecting the soldered connections to the flexible circuit. This frees one flexible section.
Remove the black screw from the second block to release the small part clamping another flexible section. If it does not come free, slightly loosen the flat screw beside it without removing it. The flexible section can then be released.



Eyepiece
This is optional, but the eyepiece can be removed for cleaning by undoing one long black screw on each side.





First desoldering steps
I mark the wire desoldered from the flash socket because another black wire will be disconnected later, and I do not want to mix them up 🙂
Gently remove the elastic band holding the circuit flat.
Desoldering requires a soldering iron with a very fine needle tip or a desoldering station. I also recommend flux to make the job easier.
Start with the four small wires at the front, working from the right: red, white, blue and green. Photograph them first to record the colours. The iron need not exceed 300°C.







Desoldering
Several versions of this camera exist, with slightly different electronics.
Take plenty of photographs to avoid mistakes during reassembly. Soldering a wire in the wrong place can destroy the entire circuit. Again, working on an anti-static surface is recommended.
Start with the black wire at the front, followed by the white and blue wires from the buttons beside the lens mount.
I mark one of the red wires before desoldering it because several wires of the same colour must be disconnected.






More desoldering
Again, take photographs.
Desolder the small wires coming from beneath the circuit-board plate.
Follow the photographs for guidance.










Mirror-box screws
Remove the screws securing the mirror box. They are not all the same: carefully record each screw’s position and size as you remove it.





Lifting out the assembly
Lift the circuit-board plate to release the flexible sections detached earlier; they will slide underneath. Pull gently so the wires come through as well. There it is: the mirror box is free!
